Self-assessment chick list - wood work and metal work

After my research week in Germany, I almost worked in the woodwork studio all day. However in recent weeks, many technicians were distributed to support produce design students’ and architecture students’ degree shows, therefore there is a short of technicians’ support in current situation.

Although I have the problem of seeking support from woodwork technicians,  I made a self-assessment checklist in order to review how many experiments that I tried. 

1/ wood veneer stuck on the fabric
This is my first time used flexible wood veneer, therefore I did not how to control its character and just stuck it on top of the calico.

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2/ wood veneer Japanese belt 
The original this experiment is to take veneer to pieces and keep its rough edge, but Alan suggested me that it would be better to cut the edge clean and sharp. Also he thinks the rough edge could be hurt models. 

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3/Wooden corset No1
This is the first bending wood experiment. After this experiment I got basic knowledge of soaking, steaming and bending plywood, and it inspired me the combination of wood and metal.  

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4/Wooden corset No2
I used fine plywood to create corset again. In this experiment I learned use cardboard to make paper pattern first and cut plywood. This way can get accurate shape of curve form. 

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5/wood veneer collar No1 with plywood collar stand 
I sewed the flexible wood veneer and used plywood to make collar stand. The shortcoming is that when I folded the veneer to nearly 180 degree, the top edge is disruptive. After this experiment I knew that although flexible wood veneer can be bended flexibly, it still has some limited effect. The metal bottoms are from Top Man’s accessary.

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6/wood veneer collar No2 with leather binding 
Basically, the skill is as same as the fifth experiment. I added leather binding . 

7/wood collar No3- ash top collar, metal binding, wood veneer   
Bending ash veneer is a total new experiment for me. I learned a lot of knowledge of using iron to steam and shape ash veneer. The most important part of this exercise is that ash veneer need to soak enough water before iron, otherwise it would be broken easily. Regarding skill, as I did not build any mold, therefore I every time I iron the ash I need to put it on the mannequin to make sure the curve is ok. 

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8/wood collar No4- metal wood grain pattern with leather binding 
The inspiration of this experiment is from my first experiment that I kept the nails inside the wooden corset. This is my first metal exercise for sculpturing wood grain pattern. I used braze to do this experiment is because expect sliver there is no metal can be carved. I think if the metal is silvery white would be better. As my main fabric is wool, I pinned a piece of wool under the metal collar to remind me this experiment can be use in the men’s trench coat.

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9/ wood belt No1- flexible wood veneer collage
This is the first accessory go with my toile. Although, I like the combination of different wood veneers, the shape cannot be smooth. I think the reason is that I did not overlap each veneers and I did not cut the same direction of every veneers. But I think that this experiment is like veneer collage, maybe in the following toile I can use this skill into my design. 

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10/ wood belt No2- whole piece of ash with hand sewing top stitching
I think that this experiment is the most important than other experiments, because I use whole ash veneer without cut it off. But currently the woodwork studio have no ash veneer, technicians gave me all of them. Therefore, I need to order wider size ash veneer on websites. The sequence of making this is 1) laser cut the shape 2) soak 3) iron 4) adjust the shape 5) hand sewing the top stitching. 

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After these experiments, I organized these techniques and tried to mix the positive sides of them. This is the eleventh experiment that combined 
1) Accurateness- paper pattern 
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2) Warm wood texture- ash veneer (laser cut hole hand sewing top stitching)
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3) Flexible character- flexible wood veneer (collage)

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This work is still on the process, but I think this experiment could be interesting than others. 

Metal collar with wood grain pattern Part 2

I borrowed the carver from one of my friends. The grey wood that I took form the island of sky is my reference of sculpturing braze. (see figure 1)

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I got the ideas of joining the wood and metal from my Germany jewelry exhibition resources. (see figure 2) 
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Therefore I drill the holes on the each metal sheet and plywood. Then I used black leather to bind the hem. (see figure 3-5)

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The combination of metal with black leather binding and mix color wool. 

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Self-criticism:

After doing these silversmith works in these days, I realized that my initial plan need to be altered while I executed the experiment of the wood work and metalworking, for instance my original design is use antique silver to make metal wood grain pattern. But metalworking technician- Nigel said that   except silver can be roll print, engrave and relief, other silvery metal such as aluminum cannot be used these kind of methods. Owing to this, currently I only can use braze to try the relief effect until I could find other silvery metal.

Regarding the metal wood grain pattern, I have difficulty of present the reality of wood grain pattern on metal sheet. As my manual scribing skill is not as perfect as sculptural students, I missed sculpturing some details of wood grain on braze. 

On the positive side, I found the way to join the metal, wood and clothing together. Before next week tutorial I am going to try more experiment of this. 

Wooden belt Part 2 -Ash

Last time I used wood veneer to collage the belt, but the outcome is not very successful. Therefore the technician gave me ash veneer to me to try another way to make it. 

The top one is wood veneer belt.
The middle one is the wood paper pattern.
The bottom one is ash wood plank.image

Because my skill of using bans sew is not very skillful, the shape of the belt was cut perfectly. Therefore I think that it might good to use laser cut to deal with my question. Also, last time Alan gave me supper amazing idea that to laser cut the holes and use thread to make top sticking effect. 

The image is working process in illustration. 

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As the ash wood veneer is too narrow, therefore I stuck two pieces of them together. These images show that the laser cut working process. 

Used magic tape to fix the veneer first. 

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Then laser cut machine started working. 

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Cut the holes that I am going to use thread to make top stitching.

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Outcome 

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The detail of the holes

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Then I used iron to steam this wooden belt and bent it. Last bending exercise I did not soak before I bent it, so I this time I did the same. However the narrow part of the belt is broken. (see figure)

Alan (Product design technician) suggested me that I can consider to build a steam bender.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMvc2tuVGcQ

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The main material that I need is wallpaper stripper and build a wooden box.

However I am confused that do I really to build it in this moment, because this week is DPP priority, and following weeks is studio work submission. I am worrying about time problem. Therefore I wrote a letter to Alan (my tutor) to seek some clear direction. 

Organizing my jewelry exhibition resources

Back to Glasgow I systemized all the resources that I took in Jewelry exhibition in Munich. (See figure 1) 

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I printed some piece of jewelry, such as necklace and wooden luggage. I was inspired by these amazing jewelry design, not only the materials that the jewelry designers choose, but also the details that they made.  

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Metal wood grain pattern Part 1

Jewelry studio (see figure)

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Today I worked in the jewelry studio with my friend (she is the second year of jewelry design student). As I had discussed with her about how to use mental to create the pattern of sod grain, today she brought some braze sheets to me and teach me three different techniques to me. (see figure)image

The first skill that I tried is ’ Engrave’. 
Working process:
1/ Drawing the pattern of wood grain on a cardboard and cut the black line off. 

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2/ Using glue to stick the cardboard on a braze sheet. image

3/ putting the braze sheet with cardboard into the hot brim-stone water for oxidizing.image

4/Result: the pattern of wood grain cannot be showed clearly on the braze sheet, because its character is not suitable for oxidizing.image

The second technique is ‘roll print’
1/I sandwiched the cardboard with two pieces of braze sheets into the rolling mail. (it calls rolling machine)

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2/ Result : the outcome is not successful, which the outline of wood grain is not very sharp. The fail reason is that the cardboard is too soft to be rolled. image

The third technique is ‘relief’
1/ I used metal pen to engrave the pattern of wood grain. image

2/Problem: when I engraved the details of the pattern, the whole shape of braze became curve. image

3/ Solution: using iron ruler to push the curve part to become flat. image

3/Result: I think that it is a quite successful sample and the wood grain can be showed obvious. Although I like the part of concavo-convex, there is an absence of details of wood grain, such as bird’s eye. Therefore I am going to later cut studio to consult the technicians how to use laser cut to cut the pattern of wood grain specifically. 

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4/ I put the sheet of braze with my wood veneer together in order to image the combination of metal and veneer. Regarding the joining I am going to take it to the woodwork studio to drill holes and use thread to sew with veneer.image

Week 10 pattern & cutting

In this week pattern & cutting I got Juliet’s permission that I could work in the woodwork studio. As in the Tuesday, Alan suggested me I can make some samples that combine the wood veneer and clothing together in order to show my working process clearly. Otherwise it would be hard to understand through my 2D fashion illustration. Therefore, I used the wool swatches that I got from Moon ( http://www.moons.co.uk ) to make the small collar sample with wood veneer. (see figure 1)

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As one of my previous drawings is men’s backpack design, I cut the ash wood veneer and stuck them on the grey wool first. I think in the following days i am going to hand sew to make the structure and angle. (see figure 2)

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Sample NO3. This is my favorite sample. The three dimensional structure reminds me the collar design of menswear. But it has problems of sticking wood veneer. Although I used double-side tape to stick wood veneer on the balsa wood, it still keeps turning up. I think that if I want to use this structure in my finial collection, I might change the material, such as ash or cherry wood. (See figure 3)

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Redesign the back of long vest

This is my second toile, but I am not really satisfied with the back design and the lapel design. (see figure 1)

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The back yoke is designed for link the wood element. But now I think the shape is too complex, I might adjust the design again. (see figure 2)

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The original back design was replaced by the new paper structure. (See figure 3) The material of the paper area I might use three different pattern of wood veneer, like collage. The bottom design I make a flexible twistable pleat to replace the initial box pleat.

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In order to focus on the back design, I fold the lapel into the top fly, which can make front design clearer then the original design. (See figure 4)

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In this moment my experiment of banding ash wood veneer is not on the process, because Chris (metal technician) spoke to me that he got special wood for me and can teach me how to band it; but he was too busy to show me the wood. But I think that I should not only wait for him without doing any experiment, I used my existing plywood to create the shape first.  

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Week 10 tutorial - previous wooden corset

I spent all day to take my previous wooden corset and sanded it smoothly. 

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I pulled all the nails out and mixed wood flour with wood glue to fill up the holes. 

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The most difficult part of sanding is to keep the shape smooth without sanding too much wood. 

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A female woodwork technician Susanna gave me her private collection of wood veneer that she bought ten years ago. (See figure ) She suggested me that if I am satisfied with the surface of wooden corset I can used wood veneer to stick on the top. 

In the afternoon, I spoke Alan about should I keep work this wooden corset? Because the time is limited, I need to concentrate developing other woodwork. 

The wooden belt Part 1 - wood veneer

This is my first toile, and today I want to use really wood to replace the wood paper. (See figure 1)

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The top one is wood paper that I bought in the Paperchase.
The bottom is the belt paper pattern. (figure 2)

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I used different patter wood veneer to collage the pattern of the belt. 
First, I used tracing paper to trace the outline of the belt and cut it off. (See figure 3,4  )

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Combined seven wood veneer, which included 
1/ Ash
2/ Weng Wood 
3/American White Oak
4/Cherry 
5/Zebrano
6/Sapele
7/ American Black Walnut

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Before I sewing these veneer together, I used calico to make a base. This time I used leather sewing machine to make top stitching. (See figure 6)

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But this way involved a serious problem that when I put it on the mannequin, the shape of the belt is not smooth, the gaps between each other veneer breakdown the shape. Therefore I might to find whole piece of wood to make this belt. 

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I showed this wood veneer belt to the technician. He gave me some ash wood veneer and suggested me that I can use iron to steam it and bend it. image

Before I cutting the shape of the belt, I exercised how to stem ash veneer. 

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Result: I was happy about this outcome that shows my belt could be made by whole piece of wood. In the following day I am going to scan my full-scale belt and edit it on the Adobe illustration, after that I will use laser cut to cut the belt’s outline. 

fashion illustration: experiment 4

The top left image is my projecting photo that I projected my 3D architecture model. I imaged the object on the waist can be a belt; therefore I make drawing of this accessary (see figure top right). In the bottom three images are my 1/2-size toiles. 

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Small size of skirt toile. 

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(See the top three images) Mix material drawing of shirks. Basically I took inspired from the skirt projecting images above, and I demonstrated the shape and adjusted the position of pleats.

(See the bottom images, mix material skirt drawing) First I stuck the seven wood veneers and overlapped them. But I realized that if I am going to make this skirt, it probably has many problem, such as sewing problem, fitting problem and shape problem. Therefore I was thinking how can I capture the element from wood grim to design wearable clothing?

Then I scanned the pattern of wood grain and printed on tracing paper, and fold it in three different ways, such as
1/ used lighter to burn the hem (left bottom corner)
2/ folded it like louver with wood veneer belt and bleak leather binding (right top corner)
3/ overlapped the pattern by different direction (right bottom corner)

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fashion illustration: experiment 5

The left top corner: 3D projecting image. (see figure 1)
The right top corner: Tracing paper drawing. I traced the right part of the projecting image and fold the paper; after that I traced the outline again, the shape likes a vest. 
The bottom three images: 1/2 size toile, material- calico. I draped the 3D structure and sandwiched the collar in the middle of the top fly. 

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1/2 size toile, material- calico

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The right image is the same projecting image as the figure 1, but  the position is different. After discussing with Alan and Juliet, I tried to add wood element into my drawing. Therefore I cut the different pattern of wood veneer and deconstruct the details of this dress. 

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Moreover, I picked up simmer 3D architecture projecting images and stuck together (see figure, images on the left corner ). 

In this experiment I concentrated upon developing the wood element. I demonstrated the elements of the projecting images, for instance I extended the curve of the diamond shape that cross from neck to left waist. (see figure left corner) I imaged it could be a piece of arm armor. (see figure middle)

(See the top right corner) This is my wood veneer drawing. I want to use various pattern veneers to represent the rich of wood grain. But honestly I have no ideas of how to make this top; I think that I will bring my drawing to the wood wool studio to consult the technicians. 

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fashion illustration: experiment 7

My experiment 7 is all about collar structure tests.

This collar experiment is my first small draping in the first term (see figure 1), which has especial meaning for me. Because in the first term, I did not have any clear ideas of building my clothing structure, basically I transferred the 2D projecting images to 3D structure without adding wood element. This small toile can be regarded as a key that inspired me the following silhouette design.  

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The 1/2 toile

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The second collar design was made in the first term as well. This is my first experiment that combined fabric and wood together. 

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As in the second term I get more knowledge about wood veneer, I can variously play around the wood resources with fabric. In the bottom drawing, I transferred the collar sample to become part of men’s trench coat. Regarding the wood element of this look, I designed a piece of structure that can put on arm. But I need to discuss with woodwork technicians how to build this structure. 

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Mix materials toile. Calico and balsa wood. 

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As these photos above shows the experiment from neck to shoulder. Therefore I made some drawing that related to earrings design. (see figure)

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fashion illustration: experiment 6

As my habitual way of thinking is quite three- dimensional, I preferred make 3D samples while I doing my design rather than drawing 2D fashion illustration first. This way has positive and negative side; for stance doing 3D samples cost take more time than just drawing 2D fashion illustration. However when I designing my 3D samples, I can get more new construction ideas while I make pleat or seam line. 

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Mix material drawing. Calico and balsa wood.

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My fashion illustrations. (See figure)
These drawings are main for menswear. 
The left top corner is men’s trench coat go with jersey top with leather collage (architecture images). In the right top corner, I stuck some fabric and leather that  could be used for the jersey top, such as flocking, leather with wood grain and grey jersey. In the bottom reign corner I took the details of the above experiment and exercise the placement and color pattern. Also I made the mini wool samples that played around the combination of wool, wood grain pattern leather. 

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Again, I applied it into the trouser and skit design that for womenswear. (see figure top area and bottom left corner)
In the right bottom corner I drawer some rough vest illustration; for some seam line I originally want to use vacuum forming machine to form the shape of wood grain, but now I think that I should draw my collection in a long sheet paper that I can open fully and decide which look I would cancel or keep it. 

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fashion illustration: experiment 3

The top left image is my previous projecting images.
The top right image is my drawing.
The bottom right and left images are my small size toile.

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In this projecting image I specially like the angle of the hem, so I decide starting from this point and expand to collar shape. First I draped a double box pleat to represent this slant edge. (see figure)

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The second toile I did not make special 3D structure on the surface. I only made 2D seam line and stuck fashion tape on the top. 

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When I draped the full-scale toile, I slightly adjusted the position of the pleat. 

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I also added a pleat on the waist.

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